Morning: The Old Quarter

MORNING: THE OLD QUARTER

Cathedral of the Holy Saviour (El Salvador)

The cathedral is the centre of the old quarter of Oviedo. With a single spire, it was built over the basilica erected by order of Alfonso II "the Chaste". The first altar to San Salvador was consecrated on October 13, 821, 1,200 years ago. Although most of the basilica dates from the 15th century, due to its numerous renovations, it combines a range of artistic styles, with a predominance of Flamboyant Gothic.

A fee is charged to visit the inside of the Cathedral (see prices, timetables and more information at www.catedraldeoviedo.com). Before entering, admire the spire and once inside, don't miss the following key elements:

The main altarpiece. It is one of the most beautiful works of the Spanish Gothic along with the altarpieces of Toledo and Seville. It is a gilded ensemble of 24 altars (with five sections and five levels) in which, excepting the central section, you can “read” the Gospel. The general project is due to Grijalte of Brussels and Juan de Balmaseda who worked on this altarpiece in 1511 and 1518.
The Chapel of the Chaste King. This is a place of prayer and meditation. Located at the end of the north transept (in the nave on the left) it houses the Pantheon of the Kings at the back. It is one of the most important historical sites in the Cathedral since it occupies the place where Alfonso II ordered the construction of a pre-Romanesque basilica to house his tomb and those of his predecessors and heirs in the first ever pantheon of Spanish kings. The basilica remained standing until 1705. The Chapel of the Chaste King features a magnificent interior doorway sculpted in the Gothic style that you will only be able to see on your way out.
The Holy Chamber.
The Cloister.

If you are travelling with your family, remember that there is a special tour for children

La catedral

Alfonso II el Casto Square

The square is surrounded by a complete sample of buildings from various centuries. Key elements:

With the Cathedral behind you, if you look to your right, you will see the Valdecarzana Palace on the corner and, behind it, the Camposagrado Palace (17th century), both of which now house the Supreme Court of Justice of Asturias.
Opposite is the La Balesquida Chapel (13th century), Casa de los Llanes (18th century, under reconstruction), Colegio Notarial (Notary Association - 18th century) and De la Rúa or Marques of Santa Cruz Palace (10th century), which is the oldest civil building in Oviedo; a private building that is leased for events.

On the left side of Cathedral Square. On the corner, you can see the new “façade” of the extension of the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias (21st century), by Patxi Manglado. And opposite, the sculpture of La Regenta, one of the spots where many tourists take the opportunity to have their photo taken with the Cathedral in the background.

At the other end of the square, on the corner next to the basilica, stands the Church of San Tirso el Real.

Even if you are not going to continue the tour in this direction, it is worth at least walking around that corner to Santa Ana Street to admire the window (covered) of the apse of San Tirso with the triple arch that is so characteristic of 9th-century pre-Romanesque.

Opposite, you will see the sidewall of the Cathedral and the secluded Santa Barbara Lane.

Wamba, the oldest bell in Europe

It is difficult to see, it is difficult to hear, but the spire of the Cathedral houses Wamba, dated as the oldest bell in Europe. The bronze, from 1219 and with a deep, long-wave sound, weighs 776 kilograms and measures 1.23 m. high and has a diameter of 1.19 m. It is rung by means of a mechanized metal hammer that strikes the clapper on special dates such as Christmas or when a Pope visits, but also for daily mass.

It was 800 years old in 2019.

Campana Wamba

Martes de Campo, from former guild association to local festivity

La Balesquida is a former guild association founded in 1232 based on a donation by Doña Velasquita Giraldez to the guild of tailors. They venerated the Virgin of Hope and now, on the Tuesday following Pentecost Sunday, in memory of an ancient pilgrimage to the hermitage of Santa Ana de Mexide, Martes de Campo (Field Tuesday) is held as a local festivity in Oviedo. On Martes de Campo, the people of Oviedo have lunch in the city’s parks and gardens. The menu has an obligatory element: the “bollo preñao”, a typical Asturian bread roll with chorizo, to the point that the festivity is also known as “Martes del Bollo” (Bollo Tuesday). The week before the festivity, a herald dressed in white and riding a white horse asks the Mayor for permission to hold the festivities.

ventana_capilla_balesquida

Back at Cathedral Square, with the basilica behind you, exit the square at the corner opposite, on the right. After passing Camposagrado Palace, you will reach Porlier Square. On the left-hand side is Malleza or Toreno Palace (17th century), one of the baroque palaces you will find in the centre of Oviedo. This is the headquarters of the Royal Institute of Asturian Studies (RIDEA). To the right of the square is the building owned by Telefónica, which occupies the site where the castle-fortress commissioned by Alfonso II the Chaste used to stand. On the corner, a sign explains that this area used to be the Jewish quarter of Oviedo. And opposite, there are two elements of interest, the Philharmonic Theatre and, on the corner, the head office, built in 1900, for the former Banco Asturiano (Bank of Asturias). There is also another sculpture on the corner that is often photographed by many tourists. This sculpture (“The Return of William B. Arrensberger”) by Eduardo Urculo is known as “El Viajero” (“The Traveler”).

La Regenta

They say that the honorary titles by which the city is known should include “la bien novelada” (“the well-fictionalised city”). Among the literary works in which Oviedo appears, the most important is “La Regenta” by Leopoldo Alas “Clarín”, in which Oviedo is called “Vetusta”.

“La Regenta” is regarded as the most important Spanish novel of the 19th century. With more than one hundred characters (four key figures), the work belongs to the progressive realism movement. Its two volumes (1884-1885) portray, with critical irony, the society of a provincial city in Spain during the Restoration.

More than a hundred street sculptures

You will find more than one hundred urban sculptures throughout Oviedo; basically a street museum. Works of different styles and value, some of which have almost become icons while others represent events, people, customs…connected with the city.

The people of Oviedo often use them as meeting points when they go out with friends. You can admire them when you come across them or you can use them as landmarks as you walk through the city. There is even a “Sculpture Route” in the city centre which, if you are travelling with your family, might be a fun option for the children.

When exploring is culture

Discover the sculptures of Oviedo with this fun game. DOWNLOAD IT HERE (PDF)

Four Centuries of University

From Porlier Square, you can take San Francisco Street, which starts on the left, where you will find the historic building of the University of Oviedo, the public institution of higher education of Asturias, with more than 4 centuries of history and campuses in Oviedo, Gijón and Mieres. This historic building now houses institutional facilities and the Aula Magna, while the adjoining “Colegio de Recoletas” houses the Vice-Chancellor’s Office. The building, in the classicist style, has been extensively rebuilt due to the damage caused during the Revolution of 1934 and the Civil War. There is a statue of its founder, the Inquisitor Fernándo Valdés Salas, in the centre of the courtyard.

Any visitor can enter and walk around the courtyard. And in summer, there are cultural events on certain days and free concerts. (www.uniovi.es)

La pedrera, refuge and charters

The pavement around the corner of the historic building of the University has its own name: La pedrera (field of pebbles). The first paving dates from 1609 and although it is been extensively modified on several occasions, it has a story of its own involving the area near the posts and chains opposite the façade. It represents the former academic charters that included the right of asylum. Although no longer in force, in times of student protests, it was claimed that, when standing on the “pedrera”, the police could not act against the university students.

Town Hall

Take Peso Street to Constitución Square, where the Town Hall stands. Opposite, you have the Tourist Information Office where you can obtain information about Oviedo and Asturias and, on the right, San Isidoro Church, which used to be the church of the Jesuits School until this religious order was expelled in 1767. Like the cathedral, a second spire was designed for this church but never erected.

The Town Hall was designed in 1622 by Juan de Naveda, taking advantage of the old city walls. Work was completed in 1671 but it has undergone major renovations; the last one in 1940, based on a project by Gabriel de la Torriente, when the clock tower was added. A major feature of the building is the arch, above which is the Mayor's office. Passing through this arch, you will leave behind the end of Magdalena Street, the first stretch of the old Castilla Road, along which travellers and pilgrims arrived to visit the Cathedral. Opposite, you will see Cimadevilla Street, which, along Rua Street, will bring you back to Cathedral Square.

ayuntamiento

The first “main” street

Cimadevilla, today mainly taken over by bars and restaurants, used to be the commercial, banking and administrative centre of Oviedo until well into the 19th century when Uría Street became the main street. It is also a literary street - the “Paseo de la Encimada” (Encimada Walk) in Clarín’s “La Regenta” - and the urban setting for “Nosotros los Rivero” by Dolores Medio.